Efficiency 



« * 





In Cutting and Making 



By 



Edmund Gurney 





Class T' TS^ d 
Book Q-^- - 



Gopiglitl^"?- 



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COPYRIGHT DEPOSm 



EFFICIENCY 
SIMPLICITY 
ECONOMY 

IN CUTTING AND MAKING 

LADIES' 
GARMENTS 



By 

Edmund GuRNEY 



TT5ZO 

Copyright, 1917 

^^'EDMUND GURNEY 

Portland, Oregon 



4 1917 



F. W. Baltes and Company, Printers 
Portland, Oregon 



©CI.A4G2968 



1^^ l<P ) $?^ 



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INDEX 

Page 

How to measure 8 

Normal divisions 10 

Drafting prefix 11 

Construction draft 13 

Blouse waist 14 

Stout and large bust-form 16 

Fitted bodice, to draft 16 

Coat collar 17 

Jacket 19 

Long coat 20 

To make coat 21 

To draft curves 22 

Chart 23 

To change shoulder seams 24 

To cut yoke 24 

To cut sailor collar 25 

To cut kimono 25 

Remarks on sleeves 27 

To draft waist sleeves 27 

To draft jacket sleeves 28 

To measure skirts 29 

To draft skirt, No. 1, 2 yards wide 31 

To draft skirt, No. 2, 2% yards wide 32 

To draft skirt. No. 3, 21/2 yards wide 33 

To draft circular skirt. No. 4, 3 yards wide 34 

To draft full circular skirt, No. 5, umbrella skirt 35 

To cut striped skirt 36 

To sponge cloth 37 




PREFACE 

X the year 1631 a peasant found a baby-basket 
containing a little boy, a piece of money and a 
note stating that whoever found this basket and 
took proper care of same would never know 
want, and that the much desired and beloved 

infant was, on account of deformity, not desired 

as a ruler of its family. Accordingly money was, for some 
period, continuously received from an unknown source for its 
upkeep. As the boy grew older, he developed a desire for sew- 
ing. Thus, the lad was named Lodivicus (loves sewing), mean- 
ing, in the Flemish or Dutch language, Geerne-naien. This was 
the start of the Gurney tailoring family, and the trade has 
until now been continuously in the same family under the same 
name, with the exception that as education progressed, the 
name was gradually changed, first to Geernaei, thence to 
Geernay and further, as the French language became more in 
commercial use, to Gernay. 

An early branch of the family moved to England, another 
to the United States. No record was kept, only as it has been 
related from parent to son. 

No search has ever been instituted, but it appears the name 
had again been changed, to be more easily used in the language 
of the adopted country, to Gurney, and I have. done likewise. 

In writing this little book, I am not inventing a new method 
of cutting garments, but the method has never been in print. 
Its principle is correct, it has stood the test of time, is of 
easy remembrance, and does not require a tailor to make a 
good pattern; in fact your brother, husband or father will be 
able to make the pattern by following the instructions and cut 
you a perfect and comfortable garment. 

Regardless of my love for the trade, I have for the past few" 
years tried to give up the tailoring business, but Providence 
or destiny has decreed otherwise and indicated the way where 
I could be of more benefit to my neighbor and perhaps to 
myself by doing precisely what my father, grandfather and 
great grandfather have done. 

On my last visit to the old home, in visiting a. number of 
old-time trade friends, there was a great deal of satisfaction 
in hearing some home-sewing mother say, "I still have the 
patterns that your father gave me ; and my mother, and grand- 
mother always held and esteemed the patterns that your grand- 
father made for them," and then to hear the gentleman of the 
house say, "I have never had a really comfortable garment 
since your people left us." 



This work would not be complete without the mention of 
my personal observation. 

Nature has made of us all a correct unit of measurement — 
a perfect body beautiful— for all measuring units emanate 
from the human form. 

It is still a practice to say the horse is so many hands high. 
Sculptors and painters use the hand measure for the dimen- 
sions of the face, etc. Commercially the measure of the fist 
is still in use, and four times across the joint of your thumb 
equals the width across your hand; three times across your 
hand is the length of your foot; hence, the foundation of the 
foot measure— twelve thumbs— twelve units one foot. These 
are only a few measuring units for length. 

For width, twice around the wrist joint equals once around 
the neck directly under the chin ; once around the neck equals 
the width of the back ; three times around the neck equals the 
bust measure. 

Nature intended us to be erect and if we hold up the chin 
on a level with the shoulders when walking, no one will be 
stooped or round shouldered. This cannot be too strongly 
emphasized. Just a little daily practice walking with your 
chin up, a stiff limb, or "goose leg" as it is called, and the 
whole body becomes automatically rigid. It forces the shoul- 
der blades in, develops the chest and thus we improve upon 
nature and become fuller across the chest. Strength and mus- 
cular developments do not beautify the carriage of the body. 
Again, first take care of what nature intended you to be and 
your general health will accordingly be improved. 



CORRECT PRACTICE IS THE MOTHER OF EFFICIENCY 

With efficiency as your slogan, you have confidence and 
eradicate all hesitations. Therefore, when taking measures, 
have self-confidence, place yourself and client at ease. After 
a little practice you will be able to converse when taking 
measures, thus making your client forget herself and be in her 
natural position. 

WHEN FITTING 

Don't say, "Stand straight," or, "Your right shoulder is 
lower," or, "Your left hip higher." Above all, don't say, 
"You are round shouldered." These are points for you to 
notice, as no person desires to have defects pointed out. 

In business you will meet a number of adversities, but in 
cutting and making garments follow these instructions and 
success is yours. 




TO TAKE MEASURES 



Tie tape or cord around waist; locate center of waist at back 
and front and place cord or tape level from center of back to sides. 
Measure around waist; divide amount into four and measure from 
center of back one-fourth waist to right side and place pin; then 
place pin in front at highest point of bust, also in front at waistline, 
and take measure, standing at back of your client. 



MEASURES 

No. 1. Taut around bare neck under chin. 

No. 2. Across back. 

No. 3. Breast measure, straight around under arms, easy. 

No. 4. Bust measure, over fullest part of bust, easy. 

No. 5. Waist measure. 

No. 6. First hip measure, 3^^ inches below waist. 

No. 7. Hip measure, 7 inches below waist. 

No. 8. Length of back from neck to waist. 

First Over-Measure 

No, 9. From center of back at neck to pin on side. 

Second Over-Measure 

No. 10. From center of back to pin at highest point of bust. 
Note amount and continue to length in front at waist. 

No. 11. From center of back to front of neck at throat. 

No. 12. From throat to highest point of bust and continue to full 
length in center of front at waist. Be sure to take this measure high 
enough at throat. 

No. 13. Shoulder measure from center of back at waist over cen- 
ter of shoulder, down over highest point of bust, continuing to 
waist. 

No. 14. Across chest. 

No. 15. Underarm height. To take this measure correctly, pin 
tape measure over 1 inch, insert pencil, and then with pencil 
inserted hold high enough under arm, subtract 1 inch for the inch 
folded over. 

No. 16. Without removing pencil from under arm, measure to 
wrist and subtract 1 inch for the inch folded over. 

REMARKS 

When taking measures Nos. 9, 10 and 11, place finger on top of 
tape without touching the neck with finger and take respective 
measures without removing tape. 

The normal measures for the average person are: Twice around 
the wrist equals around the neck; three times around the neck 
equals the bust. 



NORMAL DIVISION OF MEASURES 

Wrist measure, 6 inches. 

Neck measure, 12 inches. 

Breast measure, 34 inches. 

Bust measure, 3G inches. 

Width of back, 121/2 inches. 

Length of front from throat to waist, 16 inches. 

Cliest measure, 15 inches. 

Waist, 24 inches. 

Hip, 31/2 inches below waist, 35 inches. 

Hip, 7 inches below waist, 40 inches. 

Length of waist in back, 15 inches. 

Underarm measure, 8 inches. 

Length of underarm sleeve, 16 inches. 

First over-measure, 20 inches. 

This division of measures is standard and natural and is appli- 
cable to 90 per cent of the public. Hence, in drafting a waist or 
coat, the neck measure No. 1 is the most essential, then the length 
of back from neck to waist, measure No. 8, the first over-measure 
No, 9, and the bust measure No. 4. Also underarm measure No. 15. 
These measures are sufficient to draft normal waist. The remain- 
ing measures are proof measures. Therefore, it will be noticed in 
the drafting chapters that I use the neck measure wholly as a basis 
for all other divisions, because, primarily, it is more essential that 
the garment be comfortable and well balanced around the neck 
and shoulders. All other details are secondary and easy of 
alteration. 



10 



DRAFTING PREFIX 

Frequently we find ladies of small and large build whom we 
see at a glance to be out of normal proportions. However, in 
drafting as described, these disproportions are automatically taken 
care of. Have confidence in yourself; rely entirely upon your 
measurements and you will be sure of good results. 

Persons of extra good carriage usually have a large bust; are 
short in the back, measure No. 8; and very long in measure No. 9. 
Equally so, measure No. 10 is long. 

For instance, neck measure is 12 inches, breast measure is 39 
inches, and bust measure 42 inches. This person would be 6 inches 
abnormal, but not actually out of proportion; she simply has 
improved upon nature. 

To draft this garment, use breast measure as representing three 
times the neck measure. 

A to B would be 19% plus 2 inches; B to C would be the usual 
one-fourth of actual neck measure and A to D the usual one-sixth 
neck measure for the remaining divisions, such as width of back 
and armscye. Use the division of the breast measure, 39 inches, 
which corresponds with 13 inches neck measure. 

A large percentage of women have round shoulders and are not 
what nature intended them to be. Usually these women are of 
large frame. The neck may measure 14 inches and the bust measure 
only 36 inches, thus we see they are apparently out of proportion. 
However, such persons are not actually out of proportion; they 
have simply cheated nature. It will be noticed that a round shoul- 
dered person is narrow of chest and wide across the back; thus, 
the back must be cut wider than for normal proportion. Cut width 
of back according to measure, and the armscye will then also be 
more to the front as required. Complete the draft as usual by the 
neck measure. 

For persons with excessively large neck at throat, use bust 
measure as from A to B. Then for the divisions, use measure No. 
11, less 1 inch, and draft neck at back as A-D and B-C as usual by 
their respective neck size. 



11 




12 




These construction drafts are made for a normal size of 12 
inclics neck measure, corresponding with a 36-inch bust form. The 
points are self-explanatory and can be used as a basis for all sizes. 

It will be noticed that the first over-measure from center of 
back at neck A to D is applied at letter P for Jacket, and at 
letter O for blouse waist, to measure up the required measure to 
letter Q. For normal erect form letter Q will come on line A-B; 
for over erect form, above line A-B. However, for the greater 
majority, letter Q will come below line A-B, and must, regardless of 
the amount, be placed where the measure requires plus V2 inch in 
all cases. Dotted lines in blouse waist indicate letter Q coming 
2 inches or more below line A-B. Then to draft shoulder line for 
stooped form, pivot at R and sweep back from Q to star as illus- 
trated. The amount that S comes forward on line B-R must be 
added forward at Q as indicated by dotted lines. No seams are 
allowed on pattern at any place. 

When cutting the material for jackets allow at shoulder points, 
10 and 11, one-half inch for outlet as indicated by dotted lines. It 
will be noticed that dotted line comes to one-half distance between 
9 and M in front, and one-half distance 8 and 17 at back. 

No seams are ever allowed on jackets at point N. 

For waist allow seams all around armscye. 

To draft curves use curve chart as illustrated on page 22. 

13 




TO DRAFT BLOUSE WAIST 

Before drafting, read drafting prefix and construction draft 
instructions. 

Draw rectangle line A-B and A-F. A to B is three times one- 
half neck measure plus 2 inches for a blouse waist, and is 20 
inches for this draft of 12-inch neck, and 3G-inch bust. B to C is 
one-fourth of neck measure, 3 inches for this draft. A to D is 
one-sixth of neck measure, 2 inches for this draft. Square down 
from C, B and D. A to E is one-sixth neck measure. E to F is 
the waist length from neck to waist, measure No. 8. F to G is 
underarm measure No. 15. F to H is iy2 inches. Draw line from 
H to E. Square out from F, G and E. This locates I, J, K and 1. 
I to L is the width of back and is normally one-half of neck 
measure plus 1 inch for blouse waist. L to M is armscye width, 
ALWAYS one-third neck measure plus 1 inch. N is one-half dis- 
tance from L to M. Square down from M and N. This will locate 
O and P. 

14 



To Apply First Over-Measure No. 9 

Measure from A to D, width of back at neck; place this amount 
at O and measure up at line G the required measure and mark Q, 
plus % inch for ease. For an erect form this measure will be on 
line A-B, for an overerect form above line A-B, and for a stooped 
form below line A-B, sometimes as much as two or more inches. 
However, place Q at required measure, as indicated by dotted line 
in construction draft. 

To Apply Second Over-Measure No. 10 

Measure from A to D, width of back at neck, place this amount 
at Q and measure down to highest point of bust and mark 14; then 
continue the required measure and mark R. 

To Apply Front Length Measure No. 12 

Measure required amount, up from R and mark S. Square back 
from S. This locates T, U is one-half distance from T to S; T to 
V is the same amount as T to U. Draw line from U to V, and in 
the center mark W. X is % inch from Q; K to Y is 1 inch. Draw 
line down from S through Y. A to Z is the same as I to L, one-half 
neck measure plus 1 inch. 2 is one-half distance from E to 1 and 
1 to 3 is equal to one-half the distance from 1 to 2. Z to 4 
is one-third distance from L to Z. This is normally one-fourth 
of neck measure. 5 is one-half distance from L to 4. 6 is one- 
half distance from L to 5. L to 7 is the same distance as L 
to 6. Draw line from 6 to 7 and in the center mark 8. Point 
9 is IV2 inches up from M. Draw line from 3 to 4 and Q to 4 
(whereas for a stooped or round-shouldered form, point Q is as 
much as 2 or 3 inches below line A-B, It is not practical to draw 
line from Q to 4, and it is in all instances good practice to pivot at 
R and to sweep back from Q, thus establishing the shoulder line 
of the front as designated by point Q and 10 to star as illustrated 
with dotted lines in waist construction draft.) 4 to 11 is % inch. 
Q to 10 is the same amount as from 3 to 4 plus % inch. It will be 
noticed that the back from 3 to 11 is % inch longer than the front 
from Q to 10, which extra % inch is always needed for fullness and 
must be divided on the front from Q to 10. In basting the shoul- 
der seams, start at the neck point of right shoulder so that 3 will 
meet Q of the neck at front. Thus you have the back next to you, 
which makes it easy to equally divide the fullness to the front. 
Pin the left shoulder to the front, holding the back next to you, 
and be sure that you come even at the neck, the same as the right 
shoulder. (Left-handed seamstresses will baste the left shoul- 
der first.) 

To Apply Shoulder Measure No. 13 

12 is one-half distance from 3 to 11 and 13 is one-half distance 
from Q to 10. Measure up from H to 12, apply amount at R, measure 
up to 13 and mark the required length, plus % inch for ease. 
Normally, this will come on the line Q to 10, or for very high 
shoulders above line Q to 10, and for sloping shoulders below 
this line. 

To draw all curves use curve chart as illustrated on page 22. 

15 



For Blouse Fullness at Front 

R to 18 is iy2 inches. Draw line from P to 18. H to 20 is 
2% inches. P to 21 is 2% inches and 18 to 19 is 2V-2 inches, needed 
for extension on waist. Draw line from 20 to 21 and from 21 to 19, 
extending W-i inches each way beyond 21 for fullness required 
over the hip. This completes the draft. No seams are allowed at 
any place. 

FOR STOUT OR LARGE BUST FORMS 

Square out from 14. This locates 15. Measure from I to 15; 
apply bust measure plus 3% inches and mark 16. Draw line from 
S through 16 and add at P to 17 a like amount as from 15 to 16. 
This method is absolutely correct for all sizes, and is applicable 
to all commercial patterns. For women of large bust, add at P 
and 15 and nothing at N — (it is understood that the amount added 
at P is not to be subtracted from the back) — and the amount 
from P to 17 is added to the front after the back from N to P has 
been cut. This method is also absolutely correct for enlarging the 
front for stout women. 

TO DRAFT A FITTED BODICE 

Before drafting it is necessary to be familiar with waist drafts 
and drafting prefix, as the same points at neck are used for bodice. 

For a fitted bodice no additions are made. A to B is three times 
neck measure; B to C is one-fourth neck as usual; A to D is one- 
sixth neck; I to L is width of back, one-half neck measure plus 
% inch; L to M is one-third neck plus V-i inch, and M to N is one- 
third distance from L to M. Apply first over-measure from A to D, 
apply amount at P and measure required length from P to Q. All 
the other points are obtained the same as waist draft No. 1. K to 
14 is normally equal to one-third of the underarm measure. It is, 
however, preferable to depend on your actual measures. Draw 
line both ways from 14. This establishes 15. 15 to 16 is one-sixth 
bust measure. Draw line from 16 toward I to establish 17. 16 to 
17 is one-eighth bust. Square down from 15 to locate 18. 19 is the 
center of front as drawn on the usual line from S through Y, 20 
is one-half distance between 18 and 19. Draw line from 15 to 20. 
Line 20 is now the center of front. For a fitted bodice, 20 to 21 is 
one-sixth of one-half waist measure. Measure from P to 20 and 
the amount in excess of the required one-fourth waist is to be 
taken out in darts, which in this instance is 6 inches, and is to be 
divided as follows: 21 to 22 is one-third of the 6-inch surplus; 22 
to 23 is equal to one-half the distance from 20 to 21 ; 23 to 24 is two- 
thirds of waist surplus. Thus, if the waist surplus is 6 inches, 2 
inches is taken out in front dart and 4 inches in second dart. For 
the back, P to 25 is 1 inch; 25 to 26 is the same as from N to 8. 
Measure from 25 to H and the surplus in excess of the required 
one-fourth waist is to be taken out from 26 to 27.. For large or 
stout women, do the same as previously described in drafting blouse 
waist, and the additional amount, as from P to 17, is to be taken out 
at the front darts. Under no circumstance should more than 1 inch 
be taken out from P to 25. 

16 




THE COAT COLLAR 

Draw rectangle A-C-D. A to D is two-thirds neck measure; 
A to B is IVi inches; B to C ill 2 inches; D to E is one-fourth neck 
measure. Square up from D and E. This locates F and H. Draw 
line from F through H. F to G is 1% inches. Measure coat from 
center of back to lapel crease and apply amount at H, and shorten 
or lengthen at A if necessary. 

17 




18 



TO DRAFT JACKET 

It is necessary to be familiar with waist drafts and drafting 
prefix, as the same points at neck are used for jacket. 

A to B is three times neck measure — without any addition; B to 
C is one-fourth neck; A to D is one-sixth neck. Square down from 
B, C and D; A to E is one-sixth neck; E to F is the waist length. 
Continue to desired length of coat. F to 28 is always 7 inches. 
F to G is underarm measure; F to H is 1% inches. Draw line from 
E through H and square out from F, G and E. This locates I, J, K 
and 1. I to L is width of back and is normally one-half neck plus 
Vi inch. L to M is armscye width; always one-third neck plus % 
inch. M to N is one-third distance from L to M. Square down 
from N. This locates P. 

To Apply First Over-Measure No. 9 

Measure width of back at neck, A to D, apply amount at P and 
measure up at line C the required measure, mark Q and add V2 
inch for ease. 

To Apply Second Over-Measure No. 10 

Apply amount from A to D at Q and measure the required length 
down to highest point of bust and mark 14, and continue to length 
of front and mark R. The points at neck are obtained the same as 
for waist. Square out both ways from 14; 15 to 16 is one-fourth 
bust measure less V2 inch. Square down from 15 to establish 18. 
20 is one-half distance from 18 to 19. Draw line from 15 through 
20 to establish 21. 21 to 22 is one-fourth bust measure. Draw 
line from 16 through 22. 24 is V2 inch from 23. Draw line from 
16 to 24 and 24 through 22. P to 25 is one-fourth waist measure. 
The amount from 20 to 25 is front surplus. From 22 to 26 is the 
same as 20 to 25 plus V2 inch. For person who is full in front, 
22 to 26 is 1 inch less than 20 to 25. Draw line from J through 26. 
This establishes 27. Draw line from 16 to 27; 3 to 12 is 21/2 inches; 
Q to 13 is 2% inches. Draw curve line from 13 to 16. 

28 to 29 is IVL inches. Draw line from H through 29. H to 30 is 
one-fourth neck measure, or as may be desired. Square down from 
30 to establish 31. Measure from 29 to 26 and 21 to 22. Place 
amount at 33 and continue towards 32 and mark hip measure plus 
IV2 inches, thus the amount from 32 to 33 is to be added over the 
hips and be divided as follows: One-third of the amount from 
32 to 33 is placed from 31 to 34, the remaining two-thirds is placed 
from 33 to 35. N to 17 is 1 inch. Square down and draw line from 
intersection of line F through 35 to 33. Measure from 29 to 31. 
Place the amount at 36 and measure to 37. Draw line from 30 to 37. 

Go out 2 inches at 15 and 21 and draw line for front of coat. 

THE COLLAR 

Q to 38 is % inch. Draw line from 38 to front of coat wherever 
desired. This locates 39 and 40. 40 to 41 is 1% inches; 40 to 42 
is 2 inches. Shape as represented. When making, stretch neck 
from W to X and sew collar on loosely from Q to W. 

19 




20 



TO DRAFT A LONG COAT 

First draft a blouse waist in the usual form and cut out the 
pattern on line E-F, thus providing for ample fullness at the back. 
Pin pattern on a large piece of paper and add % inch at N. Mark 
the desired length at back and draw a straight line N to M to bot- 
tom of coat, using the full width of the material, which should be 
no less than 52 inches wide. The front points 15, 18, 19 and 20 are 
the same as in the jacket. Go forward 2% inches at 15 and 20 and 
draw straight line for the front. S to 21 is 1 inch for dart. 

The Pocket 

M to P is 3 inches less than the length of underarm sleeve. P 
to V is 6 inches; O to R and Q are each 3Vi inches. 

The Collar 

Draw rectangle line A-F and A-D. A to B is 2 inches; B to C 
is 1 inch; B to D is 9 inches, or any length desired. B to G is width 
of back; A to E is length of collar to front 8 inches, and E to I" is 
2% inches. Draw line from C through G to E. Draw curve line 
from B to G and from G to E. 

To Make the Coat 

When cutting the goods, make notch at W at neck and T at bust 
line. After the canvas is shrunk, cut the canvas the same as the 
goods, and make notch at W and T. Cut dart in canvas only and 
sew up dart. Lay fronts on canvas so that notches on W and T 
meet the canvas notches, thus holding the goods a little full from 
W to T. In this manner the dart does not show in front of the coat 
and has the same effect. 



21 




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WAIST 
SLEEVE >> ^fvf f ]_ ^^ ^V ? ^ V - ■'' 



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„ SLEEVE 




SKIRT 



22 



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To Draw Curves of Neck and Armscye 

Lay curve chart at 2 to 3 at back of neck 
and draw curved line, also at 11 to 5, 5 to 8 
and 8 to N, and draw curved lines from point 
to point. Lay curved chart at point 9 and 10 
and draw line from 10 to 9 and from 9 to N. 
10 to star is V2 inch. Draw curve line from 
13 to star. To draw front neck curves, lay 
curve chart from X to W and draw line, and 
from W to S and draw line. This completes 
all curved lines. It will be noticed that this 
curve chart is made from the shape of the 
front armscye of a normal 36-size pattern. 
It is not absolutely necessary to apply it in 
the same manner as illustrated, as it can be 
applied in numerous ways and will have the 
same curve. 

The chart is also used as a square. 



-■ I ' I ' I ■ I ■ I ' I ' I ■ I ' I ' 











AOO 3" 

TO CENTER OF FRONT 

rOR BOX PUEAT 



TO CHANGE SHOULDER SEAMS OR TO CUT YOKE 

Pin front and back together as indicated at shoulders and add 
at back any amount desired for yoke or to change shoulder seam 
as designated by Nos, 2, 3, 4 and 5. If gathers are desired from 
4 to 5, add 4 inches for fullness as indicated from 4 to 5, parallel 
to front line. If yoke is desired, mark at any desired place and 
add 6 inches or more at 7 for fullness. 

To make flat turn, add 1% inches to center of front, turn in 
M inch and fold over 1 inch, thus providing for 1 inch hem, and 
having the button in center. For a box pleat, add 3 inches to 
center of front, turn edge to center of front, fold and stitch % inch 
and also stitch on outer edge % inch, thus making a box pleat 
1% inches wide. 



24 



TO CUT SAILOR COLLAR 

Draw lapel crease where opening is desired. Lay front and 
back together at neck, leaving shoulder 1 inch apart as at 10 and 
11. Cut collar as indicated, extending Vi inch at back for fullness 
as illustrated. Cutting the collar in this manner will provide the 
required fullness over the shoulder. 

TO CUT KIMONO 

Point 2 and 3 is 2 inches from point N. Lay pattern together 
at neck as indicated, spreading IV2 inches at 10 and 11. Draw line 
from 2 to 3 in the center mark 4. Square down from 4 to 5, the 
length of sleeve, mark out from 5 to 6 and 7 any desired width. 
Draw line from 2 to 6 and 3 to 7. 2 to 8 is 1 inch, and 3 to 9 is 1 
inch. Shape sleeve at 8 and 9 as indicated. 

25 



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26 



THE SLEEVE— No. 1 

Remarks on Sleeves 

This method will make a very comfortable sleeve. There is no 
need of worrying about the size of the arm when you use the neck 
for division. However, for abnormal sizes, use the method as 
described for waists on page IC, namely, if client measures 12 neck, 
39 breast and 42 bust, this is abnormal. Then you use one-third 
of 39 as drafting power for the sleeve. On the other hand, if client 
is 14 neck, 36 breast and 38 bust, this indicates that she is of large 
frame and you must use 14, the neck measure, as drafting power 
for the sleeve. The neck measure is taken taut under chin. 

To Draft 

Draw rectangle line A-C and A-H. A to B is one-third neck 
measure, 4 inches for 12 neck; B to C is the length desired; D is 
one-half distance from B to C; E is one-half distance A to B; F is 
one-half distance E to A; G is one-half distance E to B. Square 
out from all points. A to H is total neck measure plus 3 inches, 
equals 15 inches for 12 neck, or 36 bust measure. I is one-half 
distance A to H; J is one-half distance H to I; K is one-half distance 
A to I; 1 is one-half distance A to K; 2 is one-half distance K to I; 
3 is one-half distance I to J; 4 is one-half distance J to H. Thus 
the sleeve is divided into eight equal parts. Square down from all 
points. This establishes L, M and N. O is one-half distance B to 
G; L to P is the same amount; 5 is center of C to N; 5 to 6 is one- 
half of desired width and 5 to 7 is the same. Draw line from O to 
7 and from P to 6. This locates 8. 8 to 9 is 1 inch. Draw line from 
P to 9 and 9 to 6. 10 is one-half distance J and 4 on line F; 11 is 
one-half distance K and 2 on line E. To draw top of sleeves, lay 
chart on curves as illustrated on page No. 22. It is not essential 
that you lay the chart in just this precise manner, but it is advisable 
to use chart so as to have good curved lines. 

If a more athletic sleeve is desired, make distance A to B, one- 
fourth neck measure, and divide into four equal parts as shown. 
This will shorten the top of sleeve 1 inch. Equally so, if a more 
fitted sleeve is desired, make distance from A to B one-third neck 
measure plus 1 inch and use the regular division for the remainder 
of the sleeve. 



27 



4 K 5 I J L 3 2 I 









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Q R S 1 / 




171 


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THE JACKET SLEEVE 

For abnormal forms, it is essential that you read remarks on 
sleeves, page No. 27. 

These are numerous systems of drafting sleeves, and those who 
are familiar with other methods will appreciate the simplicity 
and correctness of this method. 

To Draft 

Draw rectangle A-C, A-I. A to B is one-half neck measure, 
6 inches for 12 neck, corresponding to a 36 bust. B to C is the 
length desired; B to D is one-half distance B to C; B to E is 1 inch; 
F is one-half distance A to B; G is one-half distance A to F; H is 
one-half distance A to G. Square out from all points. The width 
of the top sleeve, as from A to I, is derived from the neck measure 
and is divided into thirds, so that the upper sleeve is two-thirds of 
the width desired and the under sleeve is one-third, therefore the 
under sleeve is one-half the width of the upper sleeve. 

Neck measure is 12 inches, add 3 inches, equals 15 inches. 
Divide 15 into three equal parts, 15 divided by 3 equals 5, thus the 
upper sleeve will be 10 inches and the under sleeve 5 inches. A to 

28 



I is two-thirds of the size desired, 10 inches for this draft. J is 
one-half distance A to I; K is one-half distance A to J; L is one-half 
distance J to I; 2 is one-half distance L to I; 3 is one-half distance 
L to 2; 1 is one-half distance J to K; 4 is one-half distance A to K; 
5 is one-half distance 1 to K. Square down from all points. This 
locates M and N. B to is 1 inch; O to P is 1 inch; D to Q is 1 
inch; Q to R is 1 inch; R to S is 1 inch; C to T is 1 inch; T to U 
is 1 inch. Draw line from B to Q and Q to C. Draw line from 
O to R and R to T. Draw line from P to S and S to U. Square out 
from B by Q to locate P. Lay square at point R and C and draw 
line to locate X. Lay square at point C and R and draw line 
towards V. T to V is one-third neck plus % inch. R to X is one- 
half neck measure plus 1 inch. X to W is % inch and X to Y is % 
inch. Draw line from V to W and V to Y. Measure from B to N 
and apply one-half the amount from P to Z. Draw line from W 
through Z. Draw line from Y to N. Lay curve chart on top and 
under sleeve to meet all corners and draw curve lines as illus- 
trated on page 22. 

MEASURES FOR SKIRTS 

Place pins 3% inches and 7 inches below natural waist in front, 
back and on sides; stand behind the person to be measured; take 
waist measure first, hip measure 3% inches below waist, and hip 
measure 7 inches below waist. Then take length in front from 
natural waist to desired length of skirt and continue to the floor. 
Thus, the desired length may be 36 inches and the length to the 
floor 40 inches. 

Write measure down as 36-40. This indicates that the skirt is 
to be 4 inches from the floor. 

Then take side length and note the highest point of hips, say 
3, 4, 5 or 6 inches, below waist and continue to the floor. This 
measure may be 41 inches. Now take length in back. This measure 
may be 39 inches for a person full in front and 42 inches for a 
person flat in front and full in back, thus indicating the amount 
that the skirt must be longer or shorter in the back. 

In drafting skirts, especially for women who do not wear a 
corset, it will frequently be found that the line from G to I is too 
small for the first hip. Thus the skirt balances or hangs from this 
point and it becomes necessary to cut the skirt by the first hip 
measure or otherwise to make the skirt larger over the hips — 
therefore the absolute necessity of taking two hip measures, 
namely, 3V2 inches and 7 inches below waist line respectively. 

It will also be observed frequently that some women are quite 
large about 10 inches below the natural waist or just below the 
corset, which is usually caused from wearing too short and too 
tight a corset over the hips. To avoid all this annoying alteration, 
cut the skirt two inches larger than the hip measure, extend darts 
to 10 or 12 inches below natural waist as may be needed and then 
take in the skirt at the sides as marked by dotted lines in chart 
No. 3. In this manner, the skirt has a narrower and longer appear- 
ance from the front, which is desirable for large women. 

For women whose measure from the waist to the floor is longer 
in the front than in the back, in fact for all women who are full 
across the front, skirt No. 1 or 2 should be cut — preferably skirt 
No. 1 — and some pleats put in for fullness. Make the skirt with six 
or more gores. 

29 




2 \e 



30 



SKIRT CHART No. 1 

Is for a plain skirt with a little fullness in back and is for a 
40-inch hip measure, 40 inches long, 2 yards wide around the bot- 
tom and will proportionately increase for larger sizes. It is 
adaptable to any amount of pleats that may be desired. 

To Draft 

A to B is seven-eighths hip measure; B to C is 3% inches; B to 
D is 7 inches; B to E is total length; B to F is 1^ inches, or more 
for high waist. Pivot at A and sweep from F-B-C-D and E. D to 
G is one-half hip measure. Draw line from A through G. This 
locates H, I and J. K is one-half distance D to G. K to L is ^ 
inch. M is one-half distance from F to H. Draw line from M 
through L. This locates X. F to N is one-fourth waist. H to O 
is one-fourth waist. C to A is one-fourth first hip measure; I to 
F is one-fourth hip measure. Notice illustrated page No, 22 and 
use curve chart to draw curve lines from N through Q to L and 
from O through P to L. Raise waist line at N and O % inch and 
use curve chart to draw waist line. 

This completes draft for a two, three or four-piece skirt. 

TO MAKE A SEVEN-GORED SKIRT 

F to 1 is one-eighth waist less V2 inch; E to 2 is one-fourth 
waist less 1 inch; H to 3 is one-eighth waist, and J to 4 is one- 
fourth waist. Take out % inch at 3 for dart and % inch at 1, 
and decrease the amount taken out from N to O with the same 
amount, % inch. As many pleats as may be desired can be made 
in this skirt. 

To Make a SHUR-RIGHT-FITTING Placket 

See instructions page 38. 



31 



SKIRT CHART No 

Makes a medium full skirt and is for a 40-inch hip 
measure and 40 inches long, 2Vi yards wide at bottom 
and will proportionately increase for larger sizes. It 
is adaptable to a few pleats at sides and also could 
be divided into a gored skirt as chart No. 1. 




To Draft 

A to B is three-fourths hip measure; B to C is 3% inches; 
B to D is 7 inches; B to E is total length. B to F is IV2 inches or 
more, for high belt. Pivot at A and sweep from F-B-C-D and E. 
D to G is one-half total hip measure. A to 1 is one-eighth hip 
measure. Draw line from 1 through G. This locates H, I and J. 
K is one-half distance from D to G. K to L is % inch, M is one- 
half distance from F to H. Draw line from M through L. This 
locates X. F to N is one-fourth waist; H to O is one-fourth waist. 
I to P is one-fourth first hip measure; C to Q is one-fourth first 
hip measure. Notice illustrated page No. 22 and use curve chart 
to draw lines from N through Q towards L, and from O through 
P towards L. Baise waist line % inch at N and O and use curve 
chart to draw waist line; if gathers at back are desired, add 1^/4 
or 2 inches at H as illustrated by dotted lines. 

To Make a SHUR-RIGHT-FITTING Placket 

See instructions page 38. 

32 



CHART No. 3 

Makes a graceful full skirt, and for 40 inches hip 
memasure, and 40 inches long, is 2% yards wide at 
the bottom, and increases proportionately for larger 
sizes. 

If gathers at the back are desired, add 1% inches 
or 2 inches at H as marked by dotted lines. If a 
pleated skirt is desired, use chart No. 1 or 2. 




To Draft 

A to B is five-eighths hip measure; B to C is SVz inches; B to 
D is 7 inches; B to E is the full length; B to F is 1% inches or 
more, for high waist. Pivot at A and sweep from F, B, C, D and E. 
D to G is one-half hip measure; A to I is one-eighth hip measure. 
Draw line from I through G. This locates H, I and J. K is one- 
half distance from D to G; K to L is ^/^ inch; M is one-half distance 
from F to H. Draw line from M through L. This locates X; 
F to N is one-fourth waist; H to O is one-fourth waist; I to P is 
one-fourth first hip measure; C to Q is one-fourth hip measure. 
Notice illustrated page No. 22 and use chart to make curved lines. 
Draw curved lines from N through Q and from O through P. Raise 
waist line at N and % inch, and draw waist line as illustrated. 

To Make a SHUR-RIGHT-FITTING Placket 

See instructions page 38. 

33 



CHART No. 4 

Is a circular skirt and is about three yards wide at 
bottom. To draft this skirt, the first hip measure as 
taken 3^^ inches below the normal waist line is used. 
There is no dart in this skirt, and usually the waist from 
L to H is put on tight to the belt. The apper part, as 
from D to G, is adaptable for yokes on pleated skirts, etc. 

This circular skirt can be cut in 
any preferred style, namely: of 
one piece, having the opening 
either in front or back, or in two 
pieces, thus having a bias front 
and back or straight front and 
bias sides. 




To Draft 

A to B is one-half hip measure; B to G is SVz inches; B to D 
is 7 inches; B to E is the full length; B to F is 1% inches, or more 
for high waist. Pivot at A and sweep from F, B, G, D and E. D 
to G is one-half hip measure; G to I is one-half first hip measure; 
A to 1 is one-eighth hip measure. Draw line from 1 through I. 
This locates H, G and J. I is one-half distance from G to I. L is 
one-half distance from F to H. Draw line from L through K. 
Raise waist line % inch at L and re-shape waist line. 

To Make a SHUR-RIGHT-FITTING Placket 

See instructions page 38. 

34 




No. 6 



CHART No. 5 

Is a full circular skirt and commences to hang full from 3 inches 
below the waist. No high belt is cut on this skirt, and the skirt 
should be made of self-sustaining material. This skirt will hang 
plain in front and full in back and on sides and can, if desired, 
be cut in one or two pieces by folding the goods over, cutting the 
skirt crosswise the goods and making the opening either in back 
or front. 

To Draft 

Draw rectangle as A-E, and A-J. A to B is one-fourth waist; 
B to C is 3% inches; B to E is the full length. Square out from 
B and C; A to 1 is 2h-2 inches. Square down from 1. This locates 
2 and 3. Pivot by 1 and sweep from 2, 3 and E to G and J. This 
completes the draft in making. 

Sew the waistband on loosely from 2 to G. 

To Make a SHUR-RIGHT-FITTING Placket 

See instructions page 38. 



35 




TO CUT A SKIRT FROM STRIPED MATERIAL 

It is advisable to use draft No, 1 or 2, — preferably No. 1. 

Draw line M through K, thus the front and back will be of 
equal size according to the chart by which the pattern is cut. Fold 
the back part onto the front part; pin the pattern thus folded on 
the material and cut out front, allowing 1% inches at front and 
IV2 inches at sides. To cut back part of skirt, lay the front, with 
the pattern pinned to the material, so that pattern lays next to the 
goods and stripes will correspond to those of the front part. Cut 
the material the same as the front, fold over at top of skirt and cut 
the material at back as the pattern requires at the waist line. This 
will make the skirt bias in front, back and on sides as illustrated. 

36 



SPONGING THE MATERIAL IS VERY IMPORTANT 

Incorrect sponging is many times the cause of ill-fitting 
garments. 

It is of the utmost importance that the end of the cloth, when 
cutting, shall be even with the thread, the same as if you were 
cutting a checked material. To be sure the thread is even, tear off 
one inch. 

Frequently the goods, from being rolled up, will be very uneven. 
This will show after the one-inch has been torn off. If such is 
the case pull the goods on the bias as much as possible so as to 
even up the material. 

Lay the goods on table or floor, wring out a sheet of cotton 
goods medium dry and lay on top of woolen material, roll both 
up together, being careful to avoid wrinkles when rolling up. 
Leave goods in sponge one hour. 

When taking out of sponge if material is still uneven pull on 
the bias while damp until goods comes even. Lay the goods on 
large table, preferably on papers on the floor, full length, and iron 
out all wrinkles while material is damp. Let lay until dry. Under 
no circumstances should the material be hung up to dry. 



37 



TO MAKE A SHUR-RIGHT-FITTING PLACKET IT IS NECESSARY 
TO USE SHUR-RIGHT-FITTING FASTENERS 




PART OF FASTENER 




HEAD 
OF PIN 



Illustration No. 1 
Letter E indicates upper part 
of Shur-Right-Fitting Fasteners 
(notice opening in center). A 
indicates upper part of placket. 
Sew on all upper part of fasten- 
ers first, as indicated, about IM 
inches apart. B indicates edge 
marking of placket; C indicates 
under part of placket. 

Illustration No. 2 
Letter A indicates upper side 
of placket folded to letter B, as 
if fastened. Letter D indicates 
the manner of inserting thread- 
ed needle from upper side of 
placket thru fastener opening 
and thru under part of placket. 
Pull needle just thru under part 
of placket and open placket as in 

Illustration No. 3 
Thus the (Shur-Right) center 
where lower part of fastener is 
to be sewed is indicated by the 
thread letter F. 



Illustration No. 4 

Letter G indicates lower 
part of Shur-Right fast- 
ener (notice opening in 
center); letter H indicates 
pin put thru center open- 
ing of lower part of fast- 
ener. Insert pin in thread 
marking F, pull pin tight 



Illustration No. 5 

Hold firm and sew on 
fastener. Repeat same 
method for all fasteners 
and they will be a Shur- 
fit in the Shur-right place. 
There is no MARKING 
and no ripping, when 
you use Shur-right-fitting 
fasteners. 



38 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING PLACKET 




To make placket, complete 
each instruction step by step 
before proceeding with the 
next number. 

Plackets are twelve inches 

Blong for all sizes. 
The right side of placket 
always fastens over on the 
left side. 

Cut two strips of soft mus- 
^ lin, percaline or silk length- 
^ wise, two and a half inches 
wide, for placket stay. 



INSTRUCTIONS No. 1 
To Make Under Placket. 

Letters B indicate edge or 



seam maikings. Letter A in- 
dicates placket stay basted 
on wrong side of material 
three-eighths of an inch from 
edge markings B. Turn stay 
over the edge of material, 
baste and stitch as illustrated. 

INSTRUCTIONS No. 2 
To Make Upper Placket. 

Letters C indicate edge or 
seam markings. Letter D in- 
dicates placket stay, basted 
on top of edge marltings C, 
on wrong side of material. 

INSTRUCTIONS No. 3 

Fold on edge marking C; 
baste with small stitches the 
full length of skirt; stitch as 
illustrated by letter F. First 
stitching three-sixteenths of 
an inch from edge, second 
stitching one and one-fourth 
inches. Take out all bastings 
and press both fronts full 
length of skirt. 

INSTRUCTIONS No. 4 

Baste both fronts together 
fiom end of placket, so that 
edge markings C and B meet. 
Baste with small stitch as 
illustrated by letter G close 
.^^^ to stitching. 

6.:5^3b vJ^P^fr^ VI W\ % INSTRUCTIONS No. 5 

^1 life lo'nJr 1=1 .-y YA \^ i« Turn skirt over to wrong side, fold 

over tight against stitching F and 
baste from placket down full length 
of skirt, as illustrated by letter H. 
Stitch as close to the fold as possi- 
ble and tack end of placket with machine, 
as illustrated by letter I. In this manner 
the placket is finished without breaking 
threads. Sew on Shur-Right-Fitting fast- 
eners about three-fourths of an inch from 
edge, as illustrated on page No. 38. Pi ess 
under part of placket with fasteners sewed on, on soft 
pad as illustrated. Thermometer on front of iron is a 
safety indicator. Cloths will burn when 400 degrees heat 
IS attamed. Switch indicates safety pilot light. When 
iron attains the desired heat, don't pull the often dan- 
gerous plug— just push the black button and the current 
I i<-.u^ ?£r-^.y^" mercury drops a few degrees, push white 
on. LIGHT IN SWITCH INDICATES WHEN CURRENT IS ON 
IRON, thus enab ing operator to use the iron with maximum of efficiencv, minimum of 
current jind^ absolute safety^ The switch pilot light should hang about two or thre^ feet 

1" sight as a continuous warning signal when current is on. 

The women have none, and their efficiency is 

Time, money and many gar- 



(PAT 

APPLIED 

FOR) 

SOFT y^' 
PAD 

button and current 



below chandelier, thus beins 

Generally men use all safety appliances. 

usually attained in the kitchen at the school of hard knocks.' .....^ „.,,, ,„„x,v ^a.- 

ments will be saved if you use the thermometer and the convenient pilot switch lig-ht on 
your iron. 

39 



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